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The Easy Fix - The Seasons New Jacket Styles -

There may be one shortcut into men’s fashion this autumn: the sport coat. Sure, men could take the trouble to get familiar with the season’s head-to-toe checklist of fashions, form the right dress shirt (stores are pushing spread collars) to shoes (brogues, wingtips and lots of brown). But compared with women’s styles tend to stick around longer in the men’s department, which is on surprise to all the guys still wondering in their guts and go back to pleated pants. (Most designers still favor flat pant fronts.)
The result is that it can take just a few new threads for a man to bring himself up to date. This autumn, the easiest way to update a wardrobe is to add a modern sport coat.
Sale of these coats are already one a tear in the U.S., prompting retailers from luxury department store Neiman Marcus to mass-market chain Jos. A. Bank to push them again for autumn. Last year, sales rose 22.7% in the U.S. to $1.5 billion, while sales of suits roes less than half a percent to $2.9 billion, according to market researcher NPD Group.
We asked fashion directors to recommend the season’s latest styles, hunting for jacket that could transform an outfit from in conspicuous to Hollywood producer but that would still fit an average sized executive. But we discovered the industry is throwing in few curves. For men who have finally accepted the fact that there’s no agreement on whether coats should have two or three buttons, there are new challenges. And while slim fits in coats coats continue to gain ground, Brioni, Canali and others are offering a more forgiving cut in the waist. In their case it’s the details that update the look.

Below are three key coat styles for the season.

Single-button coats
WHAT IT SAYS: Music and fashion player!
Earlier this summer, at a press conference in Namibia to announce the birth of his first child with Angelina Jolie, one thing rescued Brad Pitt’s T-shirt and jeans from banality : a one-button sport coat.
After years of pushing suits and sport coats with three button and even flirting with an almost Mao-like four some designers are going with the most minimal closure yet. The one-button coat has recently made several notable Hollywood appearances. In addition to Mr. Pitt, actor Jared Leto has been photographed in a J. Lindeberg trim-fitting wool version with peaked lapels. Movie director, producer and writer M. Night Shyamalan wore a wool one-but-ton Z Zegna jacket, from Ermenegildo Zegna, while promoting his most recent film, “Lady in the Water.”
The material makes a difference. Z Zegna’s trim-cut coat, in a camelhair fabric, could transform a nerdy guy into a cool one without making him look like he is trying too hard, says Michael Macko, vice president and men’s fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. The camel hair makes the $795 coat accessible to a broader audience. “It’s for the guy who is probably a little older, a little more classic, who still wants to be perceived as hip,” Mr. Macko says.

Slim, with a rollover lapel
WHAT IT SAYS: Downtown ad exec!
For trim and fit men, slimmed down coats are on an upswing especially those in preppy styles. Several three-button designs feature a lapel that folds over the top button, giving a two-button look. Designer Michael Bastian’s midnight navy English wool hopsack sport coat is anything but traditional, with higher armholes, narrower lapels and a slightly shorter length. The Italian-made jacket also has a center vent, nickel buttons and only a smidgen of padding at the shoulders.
The extreme version: super-short, tailored sport coats. Jeffery Kalinsky, founder and chief executive of the Jeffery boutiques in New York and Georgia, suggests a navy wool sport coat and a black and white herringbone-patterned tweed version, both from Thom Browne. The caution, Mr. Kalinsky says: They work best for very lean guys.

The forgiving waist.
WHAT IT SAYS: Executive who lunches!
For the guy who may have already surrendered his washboard stomach, a worsted cashmere sport coat by Brioni nods at today’s style but offers a more forgiving fit. It has narrow lapels with a higher notch, side vents and soft shoulders. The lapel is also rolled over the third button. “It’s a sexy jacket that makes a conservative person feel like they are part of what’s going on, says Tom Kalenderian, general merchandise manager for menswear at Barneys. “It’s very L.A. chic.”
Then there’s tweed. Not the heavy old-fashioned tweed, but smoother and sportier versions, like the Italian fabric used vented jacket. A more affordable version is J. Crew’s coat, with three buttons and slightly tailored fit.

By Ray A. Smith


The following article also comes highly recommended: Selling Made To Measure Suits And Shirts.
Firstly, here are some acronyms you might want to know about - MTM - Made to Measure RTW - Ready to Wear CM - Custom Made CMT - Cut Make Trim Selling MTM clothing is no different from selling any other type of clothing. You identify a need, and you present the customer with options that fill his need. Once you appreciate this simple fact, you’ll come to realize how appealing and lucrative selling MTM can be. As a resul...

Great custom tailoring information can be found in Cotton - Hemp - Jute - In Custom Clothing.
COTTON, cool, soft, comfortable, the principal clothing fiber of the world. Its production is one of the major factors in world prosperity and economic stability. Cotton "breathes". What would we do without cotton? Since cotton wrinkles, polyester was added to give it wash and wear properties for a busy world. In recent times, the consumer determined that polyester, although easier to care for, took away the cool from c...

The following article also comes highly recommended: How To Dress For Air Travel - What To Wear.
IT'S the beginning of another summer travel season, and passengers at some of the busiest airports look little different than if they were shopping at a mall, their increasingly casual wardrobe of T-shirts and shorts having eclipsed any remnants of the golden era of travel, that time before airline deregulation led to cheap tickets, when dressing for the airport meant dressing up. But take a closer look, and it's apparent ...

Also worth visiting is Clothes Do Make The Man! - Or At Least The First Impression.
"You never get a second chance to make a first impression" -- Will Rogers How important really is what we wear? Is there a cause/effect in how we are treated by the world? Does it make a difference in getting someone to help you in a Department store, or being seated at a good table in a restaurant? Can’t people look through all the superficial and see the real us? Fortunately, we have some scientific evidence to suppor...

Also worth visiting is Wool Specialty Fibers.
WOOL fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool's are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fiber consists of a series of serrated...

Also worth visiting is Mens Tailors For Suits And Shirts.
If you can't find the clothes you're looking for at a store, consider having them made. Good tailors can create garments that reflect your personal style and fit your figure impeccably. They also can perform minor miracles when you need an item updated or altered. The Steps: 1. Ask friends or your favorite online custom tailoring site for recommendations. A local fabric store is another possible source for referrals. ...

Perhaps you would like more about Wools, Cottons, Silks And Synthetic Fibers.
NATURAL FABRICS are created from fibers of animals coats, silkworm cocoons, and plants' seeds, leaves, and stems. Click on the natural fiber below for information on each fiber and their weaves. Wool - Fibers from animal coats: Sheep, goats, rabbits, alpacas, llama...and so on. Cotton - Fibers from the cotton plant's seed pod Silk - Fibers from the cocoon of the silkworm Linen - Linen is from flax, a bast fiber taken...

Perhaps you would like more about Meanings Of Colours.
RED: Wear red when you want to appear assertive or spontaneous. Avoid it when you want to avoid conflict or dispute. Blue: Wear blue when you want to appear trustworthy and loyal. Choose dark shades of the color when you want to appear businesslike. Wear pale shades of blue when you want to appear innocent and naïve. BLACK: when you want to appear reserved, unapproachable or authoritative... or dynamic and exciting when w...

Perhaps you would like more about Launder Silk At Home.
The following newspaper article has some suggestion concerning read-made silk clothing - Labels reading “dry clean only” are a a put-off to many who view them as surcharges on their Original investment. A silk blouse that is going to cost you $25 in cleaning fees over te nest year is on longer a $100 blouse, but a $125 blouse. And sine silk, cotton and other natural fibers have been around a lot longer than the dry...

Or even Alan Flusser: Back To Basics.
Alan Flusser? He is the man who dressed Michael Douglas’ Gordon Gekko character in the film Wall Street. He is an author of four informative books on men’s clothing and style. He is a dandy in the original sense of the term, a man who loves both clothes and to dress stylishly. I have always, admittedly, been a fan of his tastes. Recently, I had a special chance to meet up with Alan Flusser at his custom shop and play a different r...

Please visit Accessories For Men.
You know the importance of a great wardrobe, and you take extra care to make sure you have an adequate amount of shirts, sweaters and pants to take you through every season with just the right touch of style. And shoes... you have learned the value of the right pair, especially when women make it known that you've got the shoes to make "it" happen. But there are other items available for men that can make the difference between supe...

You might be interested in A Practical Guide To Keeping Your Clothes Shatnez Compliant.
Certain things go together naturally, like peas and carrots. And certain things don't, like toothpaste and orange juice. The Torah teaches about the power of combinations and warns against mixing the wrong things together. One of these is the prohibition against wearing a mixture of wool and linen in the same piece of clothing, as it is written, "You shall not wear combined fibers, wool and linen together" (Deut. 22:11). ...

Or even Keeping Clothes Clean - How To, Instructions And Tips.
Different Types of Cleaning - How to Keep your Clothes clean Dry Cleaning Dry Cleaning is by definition, cleaning with solvents and little or no water. The combination of solvents and heat is hard on fabrics and may cause as much wear as actual wearing of the garment. Perchlorethylene, the cleaning fluid used by most dry cleaners, is the most effective cleaner so far for most all types of fabrics. However, "perc" as...

You might be interested in Some Materials Used In Suits -.
Here is a comprehensive list of all materials and accessories used in making and building mens and womens custom made business suits - Body Canvass There are basically 2 types of canvass used, each type has a like medium & hard grade. Depending on the original consultation & the cloth, this would depend on what canvass would be used & what grade. The basic 2 grades used are woolen canvass & linning canvass Hair Cloth ...

Good reading can be found at Secrets Of Buying Suit.
Just stick to basics, and you'll look great When new customers enter Guffey's haberdashery in Buckhead in search of a new suit, sales associate Dan Mullis recites three key factors, almost by rote. "First there's the choice of fabric," he says. "Next comes the detailing." Then comes the most vital element: "Measuring the garment so that it fits exactly." Notice that "what's trendy" does not make the cut. ...

Perhaps you would like more about How To Wear Hats Correctly.
There are two degrees of politeness demonstrated by a gentleman wearing a hat: Lifting or tipping it, which you generally do for strangers. Taking it off, which you generally do for friends (or in some cases, as a sign of patriotism or reverence). Both are done as a sign of respect toward the other and dignity toward oneself. Tipping your hat is a conventional gesture, done by barely lifting it off your head with your ri...

Good reading can be found at History Of The Black Suit.
General History and Evolution of the Black Suit for DaywearThe solid black suit you ask? How did it ever become the subject of controversy? Exactly how does such a neutral choice become imbued with enough emotionally charged angst to make it the DMZ of men’s style? After all, wasn’t there a time when all of serious and polite society was dressed in black from head to toe? How then did it creep out of use and then back in for m...

Also worth visiting is Weave And The Different Types Of Synthetic Fibers Used In Cloth Manufacturing.
The Weave Types of weaves have often been mistaken for types of fabrics. For example, satin is a type of weave, and does not denote fabric content. Satin is woven from silk, polyester, acetate, or even blends of fibers. Each different fiber content contributes to the hand and drape of the satin fabric also a weave that is seen in brocade, damask, and tapestry. I once called a fabric store to find jacquard woven fabric o...

Perhaps you would like more about Flight Suits And Dress When Travelling.
By ERIC WILSON for NY times IT'S the beginning of another summer travel season, and passengers at some of the busiest airports look little different than if they were shopping at a mall, their increasingly casual wardrobe of T-shirts and shorts having eclipsed any remnants of the golden era of travel, that time before airline deregulation led to cheap tickets, when dressing for the airport meant dressing up. But take a ...

Please check out The Mens Suit - British Cut And American Cut.
To know the difference, we must examine the cut of a mens suit. In the British American tradition, there are only two silhouettes that have historically been cut into suit patterns. The American cut is a 3 button, natural shoulder jacket, with a notched lapel, and a welt upper pocket and flap pockets below. The jacket is vented in the center back. The top button is not buttoned, but is actually on a part of the lapel which is r...

Great custom tailoring information can be found in The Burn Test - How To Test Fabric Content.
The Burn Test - CAUTION. WARNING. BE CAREFUL! This should only be done by skilled burners! Make sure there is a bucket of water nearby and that you burn in a metal bucket or non-plastic sink. To identify fabric that is unknown, a simple burn test can be done to determine if the fabric is a natural fiber, man made fiber, or a blend of natural and man made fibers. The burn test is used by many fabric stores and designers an...

You might be interested in The Numbers Game - What Does Super Wool Mean?.
Why the numerical designations-Super 100s, Super 120s, Super 180s-for ultra-lightweight wools don't mean what you think they do. The thread of this story is the numbering system used to describe the new breed of super-lightweight, high-twist wools. Pioneered by Italian mills about ten years ago, these fabrics are made using high-tech machines that spin wool lighter and finer than it's ever been spun before. The vari...

Also see The Tux: A Groom's Fashion Checklist.
With all that wedding planning crowding your mind, you might be tempted to forget about formalwear until the last minute. But looking good requires planning ahead. How to go about it? Here's our checklist. THREE MONTHS BEFORE Decide what you and your groomsmen will wear. Go tux shopping or reserve rentals for you and your posse. ONE MONTH BEFORE If you’re buying a tux, make sure alterations are finished and go in ...

Or even Lifestyle - Older, Wiser And Trendier - How Dressing Your Age Can Make You Look Younger.
A friend of mine who can’t reconcile himself to having recently turned 60 years old showed up at his birthday bash in a tie-dyed T-shirt he’d worn to rock ‘n’ roll concerts 35 years ago and a black leather jacket with lots of silver studs. He tried to conceal his bald spot by combing it over with the hair he still has left. He looked ridiculous and older than he is. With the first baby boomers the generation born soon aft...

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