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A Bespoke Suit

A Bespoke suit is almost certainly made from animal hair, and in turn it is almost certain that animal is a sheep. Wool has several unique properties. It is an immensely strong fibre that resists creasing and retains heat in cold weather but releases it when conditions are warm. The coarseness of the wool and the length of the fibres dictate its fineness and the finest wools are every bit as soft as cashmere. The very best wools are grown from the merino sheep in Australia.

Suits made from wool naturally have the same properties as the fibres themselves. On a sheep's back the only cleaning the fleece gets is from rainwater, and water (in various forms) is plenty good enough for a suit. Dry cleaning and the chemicals used in the process are not good for wool, stripping the material of its natural properties. Although there are occasions when a suit has to be dry cleaned (severe stains for example), most garments should be treated with steam by a tailor. Depending on the size of your wardrobe, a suit should not be worn more than once a week and if hung properly, it will then not need to be pressed more than once a year.
other relevant links:
recognize bespoke suit
To hang a suit you will need one hanger and a clip for the trousers. The hanger should be shaped with bulbous ends protruding slightly from the centre. The jacket should be placed on the hanger and padded with polythene or tissue paper to retain its shape. Hangers are far from perfect on their own. The trousers should be hung from the trouser clip by the bottoms. There is more weight in the waistband and by hanging the garment upside down any creases will drop out more easily.

A FEW TIPS

1) The lighter the weight of material used in a suit the more it will wear. Heavier cloths are more robust. If you are ordering a light weight suit always consider ordering an extra pair of trousers, particularly if you use the suit in circumstances when you usually remove your jacket. Remember that it is difficult to buy another pair of trousers for a favourite suit subsequent to its initial purchase. Materials are discontinued and shade will vary from one batch of cloth to another even if it remains available. The darker and less patterned a suit, the less likely this is to be a problem.

2)Contrary to popular opinion, a suit can be packed in a case if it is folded properly. With the coat, turn the suit inside out and reverse one of the armholes so that it fits into the other. Stuff the suit with tissue paper before packing. With trousers fold at the knee, but again protect the fold with tissue paper. If the suit is hung properly on arrival it should be ready to use within 24 hours. If it is badly creased, hang the garment in the bathroom and generate some steam (i.e. turn on the shower). This will help creases to fall out.

3) Trousers tend to wear much more quickly than the jacket on almost all suits.


A few do's and don'ts:

a)Don't sit on leather as this shines the seat of the trousers

b)Don't stuff the pockets full of coins, keys, wallets etc unless you tell your tailor to strengthen the pockets when ordering the suit. He will then use stronger materials.

c) Do turn the trouser at the knee when seated so it doesn't stretch.

d) Do re-enforce the bottom on the trousers to stop fraying.

e)Do ask for a zip rather than buttons which while vastly more practical also avoids problems with pressing.

 

 
Also worth visiting is The Making Of A Bespoke Jacket..
After 22 years of tailoring, I’ve been asked to write how to make a bespoke suit. Firstly, we must assume we have taken an order by way of a customer coming into our premises. What happens, personally John & I have a very relaxed & business attitude towards serving customers. We feel it’s better to be relaxed when spending money, rather than going into some stuffy nosed over priced tailors who spend a fortune of your money ...

Or the highly acclaimed article on A Brief History Of Harris Tweed.
A Brief History of Harris Tweed The story of Harris Tweed is the story of a remote island community that lies between the Highlands of Scotland on the north west tip of Europe and the North Atlantic Ocean. For centuries the islanders of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra have woven the magical cloth the world knows as Harris Tweed, Clo Mhor in the original Gaelic- 'The big cloth'. From time immemorial, the inhabitants of th...

Also see Pleather - What Is Going On With Artificial Leather This Season - Pleather Over Leather?.
As we look forward to the upcoming new season, we must also look forward to the fabrics that will continue to cling to our winter-sized bodies. The past year has seen the resurgence of one fabric that has spawned a trend revolution: pleather. The fabrics and fashions of the 1970’s have been popular for nearly a decade now, but no other fabric has managed to reclassify itself as well as pleather (polyurethane film). Pleather’s...

Also worth visiting is Jargons And Their Meanings In The Custom Tailors World.
Here are some Jargons of the Tailoring WorldCork - The Boss.Doctor - Alteration tailor.Kill - A spoiled job that has to be thrown away.Kipper - A tailoress. So called because they sought work in pairs to avoid unwelcome advances.Pig - An unclaimed garment.Pigman - Person who buys pigs and pork usually at a minimal cost.Pork - A misfit rejected by a customer, but which might be sold elsewhere.Skiffle - A job needed in a hurry.Tab ...

Or even Mens Designer Clothing Continues To Evolve.
Once upon a time, men adhered to strict fashion rules, never daring to buck the sartorial system. But today´s top designers say the modern man is now willing to take risks to create a more personal look. So what are the new ground rules for masculine elegance in 2006? Ahead of Paris men´s fashion week, which begins Friday, AFP asked a diverse cross-section of Designers, form Japan´s Naoki Takizawa at Is...

Great custom tailoring information can be found in Why Do Men Button Left Over Right And Women Right Over Left?.
The theory most often uttered is that men used to dress themselves, while women had the help of a maid. Since most people are right-handed, the buttoning was inverted for the sake of the maid. Another theory says that women were forced to button themselves using the inferior hand, in order to show them that they themselves were inferior (to men, of course). This theory is based on the assumption that women buttoned their own d...

Or the highly acclaimed article on ‘made In Italy’ Is Starting To Go Out Of Fashion.
MORE FASHION HOUSES DROP = MADE IN ITALY = FOR - MADE ELSEWHERE! - LABOR COSTS, LOW-PRICE COMPETITION, EURO STRENGTH DRIVES A BIG GAMBLE A desert wind blow through the open windows of a factory in Cairo that harbors one of the biggest secrets in Italian high fashion : Egyptian tailors. Women in head-scarves stitch shoulder seams, press wrinkles out of silk-lined pockets and weave Italian fabric through digital s...

Also worth visiting is Office Fashion Tip: Looking Grown Up Whatever Your Age.
Even if they are a trim size, Evie Groenstein tells the executive women she dresses to leave the low-rise pants and sheer blouses on the rack. “If you are 50 and trying to look 30, you’re going to look older than 50!” says Ms. Gorenstein, who runs the personal-shopping service for Lehmans a New York designer discount store. “It is OK to look your age, especially if you want to be taken seriously.” Knowing how to dress...

Also see Men's Fashion Grooming.
Men's Wardrobe Essentials for Formal or Semi Formal Occasion - Men's Wardrobe Essentials for Formal or Semi Formal Occasions. One of several articles about building a basic wardrobe; this article focuses on six key items which is necessary for men's formal or semi formal occasions such as an interview, a wedding, or a date. A Suit Every man needs at least one well tailored suit for special occasions that arise, even if it'...

Also worth visiting is Wedding Guest Attire.
What to Wear to a Wedding - Wedding guest style for her Informal Daytime: Short dress or suit (business attire OK for morning weddings) Informal Evening: Cocktail dress Semi-Formal Daytime: Short dress or suit Semi-formal Evening: Cocktail dress Formal Daytime: Short dress or suit. Hats and gloves optional. Formal Evening or Black-Tie: Long or dressy short cocktail (beading, glam accessories, wrap) ...

Also see The Blazer.
Men's Blazers - Fall 2005 is About the Blazer Recently the press had the opportunity to speak with Lauren Deatherage, the men’s trend forecaster for Cotton, Incorporated. Lauren provided some valuable men’s fashion tips for Fall 2005. She has much to say about a key element in a man’s wardrobe –The Blazer Lauren says “the key to this fall’s wardrobe is mixing it up. In the past few seasons men have been reintrod...

Great custom tailoring information can be found in Nip And Tuck.
This Season, Men's Suits Get Readjusted; Slim and Trim With Shorter Hems, Narrow Lapels.BARRY G... a conservative dresser with more than 10 suits in his closet, was relieved.Recently to hear his office was returning to a business dress code and figured he wouldn't have to shop for a while. But now the 35-year-old financial planner thinks he may have to buy something new after all, given all the new fitted suits he's been seein...

Please visit Uniform Gets The Respect It Deserves.
EXCLUSIVE EXCERPT FROM ALAN FLUSSER´S “DRESSSING THE GENTLEMAN"IF A MAN runs for president, interviews for a high-level job or needs a good table at a smart restaurant, chances are he´ll be wearing a suit.The tailored jacket with matching trousers remains the uniform of official power, suggesting civility, diplomacy and physical self control.Suits have a way of looking superior. While the context and connotations of m...

Also worth visiting is Dry Cleaning Your Suits.
Dry Cleaning is by definition, cleaning with solvents and little or no water. The combination of solvents and heat is hard on fabrics and may cause as much wear as actual wearing of the garment. Perchlorethylene, the cleaning fluid used by most dry cleaners, is the most effective cleaner so far for most all types of fabrics. However, "perc" as it is called in the dry-cleaning industry is classified as a hazardous air pollutant by t...

Or even Dressing To Hide Your Weight, Dressing Tips For Bbw And Large Size Males.
It's something every overweight man has to deal with. How do you dress to impress? Its not as easy as it sounds, as many people believe that overweight men arent as trustworthy, dependable or intelligent as fit men. We all know that deep down thats not true, but thats a perception many people have. If you arent losing weight as quickly as you had hoped, or if you have no plans to lose weight, you may find yourself trying to hide your ...

Or even A Bespoke Suit.
A Bespoke suit is almost certainly made from animal hair, and in turn it is almost certain that animal is a sheep. Wool has several unique properties. It is an immensely strong fibre that resists creasing and retains heat in cold weather but releases it when conditions are warm. The coarseness of the wool and the length of the fibres dictate its fineness and the finest wools are every bit as soft as cashmere. The very best wools ar...

Good reading can be found at Detachable Collars On Custom Made Business And Formal Shirts - Brief History.
You may remember the television commercial of old that shows a women yelling - "ring around the collar" - in which she uses a detergent to wash out the grime from her husband's shirt and collar. Ring around the collar isn't simply a Madison Avenue executive's clever ploy to sell washing detergent. It's a centuries old problem and more than 150 years ago a Troy women set out to do something about it. However, she had not planned on c...

Great custom tailoring information can be found in How To Ensure A Proper Fit .
Button-down shirts Shirts divided into more basic areas... Sleeves & Cuffs Dress shirts tend to shrink after a few washings, so before buying and getting a shirt tailored, make sure the sleeve is slightly longer in order to counteract any eventual shrinkage. So what's the right length when it comes to shirt sleeves? They should cover your wrist and reach the beginning of your thumbs. As well, your cuffs should be tigh...

Or the highly acclaimed article on Store Your Clothes... Properly.
Are you tired of seeing your clothes piled up on the bedroom chair? Do you wonder why your garments require ironing every time you put them on? Better yet, have you ever stretched out your favorite sweater by hanging it? If so, it's high time for you to learn how to fold and hang your clothes -- the right way.Properly storing your threads will keep them looking their best and extend their "shelf life," and allow you to maximize your c...

Or even Men’s Fashion: Suits.
It’s the one thing every man should own: a suit. The Editors salute the suit’s ability to withstand expiration, bask in its enduring appeal, and offer advice on what to look for when you’re off to buy your own. If only we could be there to say, ‘Suits you, sir!’ ‘A mask tells us more than a face.’ – Oscar Wilde On Suits ‘Everyone wants to be Cary Grant. Even I want to be Cary Grant.’ – Car...

Or the highly acclaimed article on The Ten Most Common Men's Fashion Mistakes.
Is it really that important to your career, romance, or influence over others? It’s a scientific fact that people who don’t know you make up their minds about you on a subliminal/prehistoric basis in 30 seconds or less. This evaluation of you by others takes place so quickly and is so entrenched in the human brain that it is not usually conscious thought. Behavioral scientists tell us that we notice the following about an...

Perhaps you would like more about Dressing For Job Interviews.
The interview is, without a doubt, the time to make the very best possible impression you can make. This is a situation that calls for a serious business outfit. You, of course, want to be perceived as “serious” about the job, the company and the work you will be doing. You may be applying for a “casual dress” job, but the interview is always dress up! You will be trying to convince the person interviewing you that with your ...

The following article also comes highly recommended: Loose Wire - The Art, And Technology, Of Packing Your Clothes.
This article is about technology but it’s also about innovation: How do we do things and can we do them better? This technology is simple enough-a bag-but it’s more about new ways of using the bag. It’s called packing. Or more specifically, modular packing. I don’t travel as much as I used to but I do travel. I’ve learned a few tricks Over the years. And what has struck me is how, on the surface, not much has changed in th...

Also worth visiting is There Is Something About Socks.
The first thing people notice about you, is your face. The second is your shoes (remember the term “well-heeled”), and what’s right next to your shoes??? Look down. Socks!! Socks (called hosiery in finer men’s stores) protect your feet from rubbing against your shoes, keep your feet warm, and provide another style element in your wardrobe. Foot Notes: The word “sock” is derived from the Latin soccus, the ...

Read about Men's Accessories: What Is Hot Now - For Weddings - For The Groomsman Next   


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