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Newsletter 10Whether short or tall, portly or slim, a man needs to shop for his clothing with his individual physique in mind. Since most people aspire to look like some idealized version of themselves, selecting clothes based on a particular body type is as old as fashion itself. Whereas I believe that familiarity with the geometric principles that downplay girth or emphasize height or breadth is helpful, such information should be viewed as a guide rather than dogma. I have seen the most well-dressed men wear clothes in stark contradiction to the accepted dictates of fashionable physiognomy. I can recall one portly, older gentleman looking so debonair in his large, plaid, hefty tweed sports suit simply because it was cut to perfection. I am told that no other group of men would parade down Savile Row in the thirties with more panache than the contingent of Brazilian diplomats, most of whom were under five feet seven and all of whom wore their soft-shoulder, double-breasted suits with cuffed trousers. Proportion in dress in the foundation of all classic dressing. The truly stylish man knows enough about the rules to know how and when to break them. To assist some of the basic body types in choosing their tailored clothing, I would like to make the following suggestions: The taller the tree, the broader its branches, so the tall man needs fuller cut clothes for balance and style. The selections should de-emphasize length by breaking up the vertical lines. Jackets 1. Sloping shoulders of generous width. 2. Coat should be cut on the longer side. 3. Double-breasted model that buttons on waist, not below it, such as the 6/2 placement. 4. Two-button single-breasted. 5. Broader lapels, finishing in lower area of upper chest. 6. Flap pockets and the additional ticket pocket help fragment verticality. 7. The fabrics can be heavier in look, such as flannels and cheviots, and of larger scale in pattern, such as broad stripes, hound’s-tooth checks, glen plaids, or squared-off windows panes. Trousers 1. Long rise, full cut with deep pleats. 2. Leg with grntle taper. 3. Cuffs (1 ¾”) with definite break on shoe. Accessories 1. Full-cut shirts must show ½” of shirt cuff. 2. White contrast collars and cuffs break up length. 3. Amply proportioned spread collars. 4. Broadly spaced, fine-lined stripes, tatters all check, windowpanes, and horizontal stripes. 5. Belts break up length. 6. Welt-soled shoes for more substantial foundation.
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