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Newsletter 11Whether short or tall, portly or slim, a man needs to shop for his clothing with his individual physique in mind. Since most people aspire to look like some idealized version of themselves, selecting clothes based on a particular body type is as old as fashion itself. Whereas I believe that familiarity with the geometric principles that downplay girth or emphasize height or breadth is helpful, such information should be viewed as a guide rather than dogma. I have seen the most well-dressed men wear clothes in stark contradiction to the accepted dictates of fashionable physiognomy. I can recall one portly, older gentleman looking so debonair in his large, plaid, hefty tweed sports suit simply because it was cut to perfection. I am told that no other group of men would parade down Savile Row in the thirties with more panache than the contingent of Brazilian diplomats, most of whom were under five feet seven and all of whom wore their soft-shoulder, double-breasted suits with cuffed trousers. Proportion in dress in the foundation of all classic dressing. The truly stylish man knows enough about the rules to know how and when to break them. To assist some of the basic body types in choosing their tailored clothing, I would like to make the following suggestions: ATHLETIC BUILD Jackets 1. Shoulders should be as unpadded and natural-looking as possible. 2. Jackets need length to balance the strong shoulder without shortening the leg line. 3. Minimal waist suppression. 4. Two-button single-breasted over double-breasted-avoid three-button single-breasted. 5. Lapels should be full with slight belly. 6. Flap on pockets. 7. Side vents or no vents. 8. Fabrics should de-emphasize bulk: solid worsteds, herringbones, vertical windowpanes, subtle stripe with no less than ¾” spacing. Trousers 1. To fill out the jacket, Trouser must be worn as high on waist as comfortable. 2. Full cut through hip and thigh with taper to 1 ¾” cuff. 3. Trouser leg should have definite break on shoe. Accessories: (Assuming a broad face and thick neck) 1. Vertical shirt collar such as tab or long points. 2. Solid, striped, or patterned neckwear. 3. Shirt with strong stripes. 4. Shoes with larger scale to balance shoulders.
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