Topic 3: Style Specific Questions

3a ) What is the difference between Inverse Pleats and Reverse pleats and how do they differ from the standard pleats in pants? Inverse pleats are pleats that face inwards towards the zipper in pants. These are also called inward facing pleats or Traditional inverse pleats.
Reverse pleats are pleats that face outwards towards the pockets and are also known as standard pleats.
In modern times, almost all pants are made with reverse pleats that face the pockets. In the 1800s to around 1970s pants had the traditional inverse pleats that faced the zipper. (Back)

3b ) What are Morning Pants? Morning dress pants are a particular category of men´s formal dress. It is worn with top hat and tails, and is most frequently to be seen being worn by male members of a wedding party. In common with court dress, mess dress and white tie, morning dress is usually reserved for particularly prestigious or important occasions. Despite the name, it may be worn at any time before 5pm. However, it is becoming increasingly common to continue wearing it later than this. The morning pant/trousers should not have turn-ups (cuffs), and should have one pleat to each leg. Braces should be worn to prevent the waistband from appearing beneath the waistcoat. These types of pants are often called as "Morning Pants". Typically morning pants are charcoal grey with stripes and go with dove tail morning coats and white waistcoats.
We would recommend the more value added Exclusive and Deluxe fabrics for this kind of trousers. These types of fabrics are imported from countries like Italy, France and the U.K. and are all pure wools, cashmeres etc unless otherwise specified. (Back)

3c ) What is a vent? Vents are openings on the back of the jackets. Some call it slits. Classic traditional styles usually have one center vent at the back of the jacket. Very traditional British or 50s and 60s style of jackets have two side vents at the back of the jacket and more modern ´Italian cut´ slim styles have no vents at the back of the jacket in which case the hips tend to be a bit on the snug side as well. (Back)

3d ) Do you make detachable collar dress shirts? May we confirm that we can custom make to measure detachable collar shirts per your specifications. To order these, please visit one of our fabric collections, select the shirt category of choice, then the style and then the colour. On subsequent special request pages, indications of specific customizations such as detachable collars, type of cuffs, pockets and so on can be made. This will then be incorporated into the order and is at no extra charge whatsoever. (Back)

3e ) What is a Peak Lapel? In a Peak lapel , the lapel rises up and beyond the collar tip so as to create a peak of sorts. Separation between the collar and the lapel in this case is less than 1 degree due to the fact that the lapel rises upwards and by default therefore runs parallel to the outer rim of the collar. The tip therefore points towards the shoulders. (Back)

3f ) What is a Notch Lapel? On a coat, a notch is a cut between the collar and the lapel. A Notch lapel is when there is a 45 to 90 degree angle of separation between the collar and the lapel at the point where they join. The collar is the part that goes around the neck and the lapel is the part that sits on the front of the chest. In a Notch lapel, there is a wide space separating the outer most tip of the collar from the outer most tip of the lapel. (Back)

3g ) What is an ainsley collar? An Ainsley collar is a standard necktie collar that has a 45 degree to 60 degree angle at the tie space (place closest to skin at the neck - above the neck button). This is the most common type of collar used for shirts that are worn with neck ties.
You can learn more about fabrics by visiting our Glossary pages or you can do quick Style searches using one or more criteria and keywords to help pick specific styles that you have in mind. (Back)

3h ) What is the difference between English or British cut and Italian cut mens suits? An English or British traditional cut is where the proportions are closer to the body. These suits have slightly narrower shoulders, a closer fit at the chest and an hourglass (as close to an hourglass as possible given the wearers body structure) shape at the waist. The skirt (hip) section of the jacket flares out ever so slightly to add accecent to the waist.
An Italian cut mens suit is when the overall proportion is more like an inverted V, where the shoulders are accecented, the waist is tapered and the hips are snug and close to the body.
The British Traditional cut is ideal for a standard proportioned body structure that is not too slim nor too full. An Italian cut is more ideal for an athletic figure. Think Sean Connery (perfect figure for the British cut) and think Pierce Brosnan (great physique to carry an Italian tailored suit)! (Back)

3i ) What is a button down collar? The button-down collar has small buttons at the tips of the points. It is a characteristic collar style of the "preppy" look first popularized in the 1960s. Few boys and men currently wearing button-down collars are aware of its historical origins. The button-down collar is in fact an American adaptation of shirts worn by English polo players. It was introduced by John Brooks in 1900 after he had discovered it being worn by English polo players in order to prevent flapping during a match. Polo players at first wore formal cotton dress shirts, but had the collars buttoned down to stop them flapping about during the game which was distracting to the players. The button-down collar is today a staple of American men´s wear, but much less common in Britain or the continent. A button down collar has small buttons on the edge of the collar tips and hold the tips down thus preventing the tips from curling or flapping. (Back)

3j ) What is the difference between a single breasted and a double breasted jacket? Single-breasted refers to a jacket or similar garment having one row of buttons and a narrow overlap of fabric in the front.

3k ) what is a sculptured collar? A Scupltured collar, also called the Pat Riley collar or a dove tail collar, is found on some trend-setting styles of shirts. This is a spread collar where the front edges of the collar curve away from each other in an arc such that the tips of the collar point away from each other but one can see two semi-curved arcs in the front on the sides of the tie space.
Please use our Style search page and type in the words - sculptured collar - in the keywords field to view the various styles of shirts with this collar that we can custom make to measure. (Back)

3l ) What is a Split Back on Jackets? A split back on a jacket is when the seam at the center of the back is done so as to create a pleat exactly on the seam. This pleat then opens and closes with the movement of the arms forwards and backwards. This feature is more from the 50s and 60s and gives the jacket a sort of - safari - look. The pleat runs from the center of the back a few inches below the neck to approximately the back of the waist. There is a small additional cost for this feature.
Please use our Style Search function and type in the words - Split Back - in the keywords field of the search criteria to bring up styles with this feature. (Back)

3m ) What is are inverted box pleats? Inverted box pleats are when two pleats next to each other are so done such that the two pleats join at the top to create a point of sorts such that it looks like an arrowhead. The pleats meet on the top and move away from each other at an angle.
Please use our Style Search function and type in the words - inverted box pleat - in the keywords field of the search criteria to bring up styles with this feature. (Back)

3n ) What is the difference between a Notch Lapel and a Peak Lapel? A Notch lapel is when there is a 45 to 90 degree angle of separation between the collar and the lapel at the point where they join. The collar is the part that goes around the neck and the lapel is the part that sits on the front of the chest. In a Notch lapel, there is a wide space separating the outer most tip of the collar from the outer most tip of the lapel.
In a Peak lapel, the lapel rises up and beyond the collar tip so as to create a peak of sorts. Separation between the collar and the lapel in this case is less than 1 degree due to the fact that the lapel rises upwards and by default therefore runs parallel to the outer rim of the collar. The tip therefore points towards the shoulders.
To view these features, type in the words - Notch Lapel - or - Peak Lapel in the keyword field of our Style Search page and styles bearing these features will be displayed for your perusal. (Back)

3o ) What are ticket pockets? Ticket pockets are Vintage style pockets found mostly on jackets, coats and suits and originate from the days of the popularity of train travel when gentleman used to travel more often by train rather than private cars and found this extra pocket to be useful for their train tickets, spare change and coins.
Typically, ticket pockets are found on the outside of a jacket and are slits with or without flaps, above the lower hip pockets on a jacket.
On pants, they are found as invisible/barely visible slits just under the waistband and located in the front a few inches from the pants opening.
To review styles with ticket pockets, please type in the words - ticket pocket - in the keywords field of our Style Search page. (Back)

3p ) What is a hidden button down collar? A collar with hidden buttons that fasten the points or tips to a shirt. This is considered one of the casual collars designed to appear more formal so that it can be worn with a tie. These are softer than standard collars. (Back)

3q ) What style is best for me? We recommend your reviewing our articles for information and knowledge on what works best for different physiques, in different settings and for different occasions. Our Articles page will also update you on current fashion and trends in the clothing world.
Should you still need more advice on what will work best in terms of styles, fabrics and colours, please do not hesitate to Contact us. (Back)

3r ) What is button stance? On Jackets, Blazers and Coats the position where the first button starts on the chest is called a button stance. This is usually defined as a standard, low, or high button stance. A low button stance essentially means a longer gorge and a high button stance essentially means a higher gorge on suits and coats. (Back)

3s ) What is a Gorge? The gorge is that point where the lapels meet in the front and create a V of sort between which the necktie is visible against the background of the shirt. The coat´s design determines its positioning. While there is some flexibility in its placement on the upper chest, move it outside of this area to where it becomes a focal point and you court instant obsolescence.
There are three kind of gorges on a suit coat :-
1 - Low/ Long Gorge :- is when the lapels are cut very low towards the stomach to that more of the shirt and tie are visible.
2 - Mid Gorge : - is when the lapels are slightly lengthened in proportion to the overall length of the jacket but not so much as to make it a visibly low gorge.
3 - High Gorge :- When the lapels is cut very high towards the neck so as to reduce the amount of tie visible between the two lines of the jacket on the chest.
The length of the gorge though depends on a lot of factors such as styles, the height of the wearer which in turn determines the length of the jacket and hence the gorge, the number of buttons on the jacket and so on. (Back)

3t ) What is a Placket Covered Front? Placket covered fronts are usually found in some shirts though sometimes can be a feature in trendy stylishly long jackets. A placket covered front is when the front buttons are covered by a placket making them invisible. This is a flap that covers the button and runs from the collar band down to the edge of the jacket or shirt. Should this feature be required, please use the special requests section of the order placement process to dictate it. (Back)

3u ) What is a bouttonnaire? A bouttonnaire is a button hole, also called a carnation hole, that goes on the lapel of suits and jackets. On mens suits and jackets and on some womens suits, this is a default feature. Should a bouttonnaire or a lapel button hole be required in styles where this is not a default, please use the special requests section of the order placement process to indicate this preference. We can also do a stalk holder behind the lapel that will keep carnations in place should this be a requirement. There is no extra charge for this feature.
Please use our Style Search function and type in the words - bouttonnaire - in the keywords field of the search criteria to bring up styles with this feature. (Back)

3v ) What is a Mandarin collar or Thai collar or Oriental collar? These are styling features found mostly in shirts and sometimes in jackets. Mandarin collars and Oriental collars are sometimes refered to as Band Collars as well. A Mandarin collar is a band around the collar that meets up in the front. In this style, it clips closed together in the front above the buttons. An Oriental collar is similar to the Mandarin collar where the two ends of the collar panel join in the front. A Thai collar is similar to a band collar but a Thai collar does not join in the front, there being a space between the two ends of the band above the first button in front. (Back)

3w ) Where does custom tailoring and the Traditional and Modern Styles fit in ? Generally there can be confusion between what an off the rack product house and us as custom tailors present to our clients in terms of service and products.
An off the rack producer creates a style that he feels is going to be accepted by the market and mass produces the garments for sale.
A custom tailor such as us, ask the client what he wants and specifically produces the garment to the clients tastes and preferences regardless of the type of taste, good or bad that the client has. Our job is to produce well fitting, custom made garments, that are made to measure and to the clients specifications.
This is not to be confused by what is right to wear and what is not.
Thus while it may be right to have a tuxedo always with a shawl collar, clients may prefer notched lapels for their tuxedo.
All we can do is advice and it is really up to the client to go with the suggestions or go with his own preference, however outlandish or improper.
On the other hand, fashion and what men wear changes over time and while it may be proper to wear garments a certain way at one time, at a different time or age, it may be considered improper or dated.
Further more, what we do is advice and also use images to help clients decide what they like best and then follow their indications to custom make their garments.
Since we cater to a large range of people, we offer both the traditional and the more ´modern´ styles as references and work from their to create each individual piece from scratch.
The images therefore used at our website are but pointers or outlines of the garment and specific customization takes place in a process that begins with the selection of the basic suit or other garment that the client likes the look of.
We do not portend to create our own designs but create designs and styles for the client. Thus it is that a notch lapel tuxedo is shown at our website but it is only a beginning in the process of the individual garment being created.
There is thus no disconnect between what some fashion pundits claim, what is generally considered traditional or proper and what we produce.
Today, more so than ever before, the individual taste and style is king. The days when most used to follow the accepted norms of what to wear and what not to wear is long gone. However, that is not to say that the traditional mode of clothing is no longer accepted. On the contrary the very traditional style has become more common than one would imagine as more and more people wanting to appear more and more individualistic and wanting to stand out of the crowd, are resorting to the traditional style for this purpose, simply because apparently more and more people are dressing non-traditionally.
A sort of catch 22 kind of situation if it may be said so. As more people start to dress individualistically to stand out of the crowd, most of the crowd starts to look the same and then the tide turns the other way with more people going traditional just to stand out and when once again the crowd looks more or less homogenous, the tide turns to outlandish again.
Once again, being custom tailors, while our origins are in the traditional way of dressing and in the traditional cut of clothing, our job and responsibility is to ensure that the garments ordered fit the client well, is comfortable on him and if possible, flatters him or her. While we can maintain our stance towards the traditional, we can however custom make modern cuts and styles with equal panache. (Back)

3x ) What is the difference between a Suit Jacket, a Blazer and a Sports Jacket ? Sports jackets, blazers and suit jackets are pretty much the same thing except, suit jackets can have single, side or no vents while sports jackets typically should have a center vent and blazers typically have side vents.
Another difference is that while suit jackets are matched with exactly the same colour as the pants, sports jackets can be any colour and usually with a pattern such as hounds tooth or herringbone or checks and if solids, they are usually very light or very dark colours..never ´in between´ colours. Sports jackets should never be in stripes or prince of Wales checks as these are suitings.
Blazers are always solids and only in dark blue, navy, black, burgundy, dark green, red and white or ivory. Blazers must always have gold or silver buttons while sports jackets should have matching buttons as should suit jackets.
The cut of the three are pretty much similar though sports jackets can never be double breasted.
Blazers can be single or double breasteds and suits too can be single or double breasteds.
Vents are the openings on the back of the jackets. Some call it slits. Classic traditional styles usually have one vent..center vent.. at the back of the jacket.
Very traditional British or 50s and 60s style of jackets have two vents..side vents .. at the back of the jacket and more modern ´Italian cut´ slim styles have no vents at the back of the jacket in which case the hips tend to be a bit on the snug side as well. (Back)

3y ) Can Designer Styles be Replicated ? May we confirm that all our pieces are individually made-to-measure and not adjustments to off the rack sizes or off the rack sizes themselves. We can thus replicate off the rack brands such as designer labels in terms of styles per your preference.
Each piece is individually cut in the style, fabric, colour and measurements specifications provided when placing the order.
The special request section of the order placement process can be used to indicate the style you would like replicated by including a link to an online image or referring to an image you may Send Us as an attachment.
Should you like to send us an image attachment, kindly do so in JPEG format that ends in the extension .jpg and is of no larger than 50 kb in size each. If there are multiple images, please send them as a zip file for easier upload and downloads
Links to online images can also be used for the same purpose.
When placing the order, select one of the collections at our website and select the category of item you would like to order. Then select any style and choose a fabric and then the colour. Click on the "ok" button to add it to the shopping cart and on subsequent special request sections, please indicate any style variations or reference to the style to be replicated. This information will then be incorporated into the order.
Measurements would need to be set up by logging into your account at our website with your email and setting up a profile first and adding measurements to it.
Please use our measurements forms extensively and our video tutorials freely for the perfect fit in these custom garments.
It takes a week to ten working days to complete an order and three to four working days in transit via international couriers for safe and fast door to door delivery worldwide. (Back)

3z ) Can I order deviations from Styles that I like but want slightly different ? May we confirm that we can definitely incorporate deviations to selected styles. This can be such as a change to the type of collar, or type of cuffs, number of buttons, pleats and so on. To order such deviations, kindly visit the collection of your choice and then select the category you wish to order from. Select the style that comes closest to your requirements, select the fabric and then the colour and use the subsequent special request sections of the order placement process to indicate a change or customization of the style as necessary.
You can also select specifications such as the number of buttons, pockets etc after having selected the style, fabric and colour of the custom item.
These changes, updates and deviations are at no extra charge whatsoever, unless otherwise specified. (Back)

3aa ) What are the Construction Specifications for your shirts? For shirts,we stock high end pure cottons, broadcloths, pinpoints, end on ends, twills and cheesecloth, in blend cottons, cotton polys, pure cottons, twills, oxfords, chambray, silks and more and most of the fabrics are 2 ply and above for shirts.
The fabrics are mostly sourced from Thailand, UK, France and Italy.
Luxury shirting fabrics are found at the DELUXE COLLECTIONS and HERITAGE GOLD collections. The mills by themselves may not be quite as well known however the quality of fabric is at least as good if not better.
The thread count of our shirt fabrics are all 2 ply and above.
For the construction of our shirts, we use smooth cotton poly threads that are extra strong non shrink as well as we use high tensile strength silk woven threads.
The stitch count on our shirts are 120 and above.
all seams double stitched, elasticated collar buttons, collars and front rim stitched, extra generous shoulder seams..overall our quality of workmanship is comparable to the best there is. Our collars are double layer top fused collars and include removable or permanent collar stays depending on the style of collar.
The shirt cuffs are double layered top fused, barrel cuffs are convertible with expandable button stance for ease of wearing a watch or bracelet.
At the back of the shirt, we incorporate single side back pleats, double side back pleats, box pleats, inverted box pleats and plain no pleat yoke. Box pleats though are the normal standard of production.
Our seams are double stitched packed seams so no interlock stitches are visible when rolling up the sleeves.
We use imitation mother of pearl buttons as standard, Real mother of pearl buttons can be used upon request. Coloured shirts have either imitation horn buttons or coloured buttons that match. Button holes are hand sewen with interlocked machine stitches.
(Back)

3ab ) What are hand stitched lapels and pockets? Hand stitched lapels and pockets are features that go back to the days when all suits were only done by hand. In those days, the two shells, outer and inner shells were constructed separately and sewn in, one into the other from the wrong side and then pulled inside out so that the right sides were out. In this sort of construction, the edges of the jacket were sewn in by hand to retain the integrity of the jacket and smoothen the edges. This hand sewing created small ripple effects on the jacket lapels and pockets which we are trying to replicate with our products as an option. In high end suits, you will find this replicated by machine stitched tiny ´dog tooth stitches´ on the lapels. We on the other hand, offer this as an optional feature in our suits and replicate the older traditional suit construction method by hand. Click on ´hand stitched lapels and pockets´ to see the image of the effect on the finished product that this feature has. (Back)

Topic 4: Fabrics and their Features

4a ) What is TWO-FOLD or Two ply Cloth? High end fabrics used in the production of the seasonal shirts are produced from fine natural fibres in two-fold super fine cotton like 100s,120s and 140s. Two-fold cotton has 2 yarns that have been twisted together tightly to form one yarn, advantages over a single yarn fabric (singles) are that it is a more durable fabric, weaker spots are reinforced and yarns are stronger and do not fray easily. Normally these types of fabrics are mentioned as 2/60s, 2/80s, 2/100s, 2/120s. Here 2 stands for two ply or two fold. (Back)

4b ) What is Dormieul? Dormieul is a manufaturer of very high end pure wool cloth for mens suits and slacks. They are located in England and have trading offices in most European countries as well as centers of tailoring in Asia. Cloth from Dormieul is reknowned worldwide for its unique hand and luxurious feel. Dormieul suit fabrics are typically made in the tradition of British tastes with most fabrics being in traditional business colours and patterns such as Chalk Stripes, Bankers Stripes, Pin Stripes, Prince of Wales check etc.
Dormieul is famous for its ´smooth as silk´ finish of wool suitings and have a lustre to it that exudes High Class Taste and Refinement. A person who wears Dormieul stands out as someone who knows what to wear and how to wear it. You can learn more about fabrics by visiting our Glossary pages or you can do quick Cloth searches using one or more criteria to help pick specific cloth you might be interested in, based on the weight, patterns, content and other requirments. (Back)

4c ) What is Super 100s, 110s, 120s, 130s, 150s, and 180s? It represents the fineness of the yarn in the fabric. The higher the number the higher the fineness. The yarn number for cotton yarns is based on the number of 840-yard hanks in a pound. The convention for indicating plies resembles that for wool. Two-ply 20s would be written 2/20s or 20/2, and would be twice the weight, length for length, of single ply 20s yarn. (Back)

4d ) what is the designer brand Collections? The fabrics in our Designer Brand collections are sourced from Top Mills and Cloth Manufacturers worldwide. Cloth from mills such as Dormieul, Scabal, Zegna etc are included in this collection.
The fabrics are some of the best in the world and have a super luxurious finish and hand.
You can learn more about fabrics by visiting our Glossary pages or you can do quick searches using one or more criteria to help pick specific cloth you might be interested in, based on the weight, patterns, content and other requirments, using our Cloth Search function. (Back)

4e ) What is SEERSUCKER? A fabric usually a narrow striped cotton with alternate stripes crinkled in the weaving that has a Crepe-stripe effect. Colored stripes are often used alternating with white. The fabric has a matte surface. Seersucker comes in light, and medium to heavy weights. The woven crinkle is produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp. This effect is permanent. Some seersucker cloths may be produced by pressing/ironing or a chemical treatment, which is unlikely to be permanent. Seersucker is also called plisse. It is Durable, gives good service and wear and especially excellent for very hot summers. It can be laundered without having to iron. Essentially it is wrinkle resistant by nature. It can also be bleached, yarn dyed, or printed. Some seersuckers come in a check or plaid effect as well. Seersucker has many uses: Summer suits for men, women, and children, coats, uniforms, trims, nightwear, all kinds of sportswear, dresses, blouses, children´s wear of all kinds, curtains, bedspreads, slipcovers etc.
Since we do not stock seersucker in our inventory, please email us if this cloth is a requirement and we would be happy to source it from our suppliers. Generally, colours such as light blue on white, navy on white, black on white and grey and white are fairly easily available. (Back)

4f ) What is ply? Ply refers to the number of individual yarns used as a strand. Single ply fabric is woven from one, individual yarn; 2-ply fabric is made from yarns that are twisted together and then woven. If 2-ply yarn is used, the finished construction will have twice the thread count of the same construction made from single ply yarn. 2-ply yarn must be made from a very high yarn size (like 100) or they will feel thick and heavy. (Back)

4g ) What is yarn size? Yarn size refers to the thickness of the yarns that are used to make the fabric. A higher yarn size means a finer yarn. Generally sheets are made from a yarn size range of 40 to 100. Obviously, the finer the yarn, the more of them will fit in a square inch. (Back)

4h ) What is thread count? Thread count is the number of horizontal and vertical threads in one square inch of fabric. Thread count in sheets can range from 80 to 700, although most stores sell sheets that range from 180 to 320. In general, the higher the thread count, the softer the fabric feels, but that doesn´t necessarily mean the sheets will last longer (and sheets with a higher thread count are usually more expensive). One linens department manager says thread counts above 380 are "kind of a farce." Manufacturers twist two threads in a way that lets them double the sheet´s thread count.
Recently, many linens manufacturers have touted thread count as the best way to choose a sheet. But others point out that the quality of the fibers and finish are more important to the sheet´s comfort and durability. In fact, sheets made of linen, flannel, or jerseys (those trendy “T-shirt” sheets) have low thread counts due to the type of fabric. A high thread count would eliminate part of the appeal of these sheets. According to Consumer Reports, cotton and cotton-blend sheets with a thread count of 180 to 200 stand up to wear and tear and provide satisfactory comfort. (Back)

4i ) What is a Burn Test? How do I test a fabric? Burn Test - CAUTION. WARNING. BE CAREFUL! This should only be done by skilled burners! Make sure there is a bucket of water nearby and that you burn in a metal bucket or non-plastic sink.
To identify fabric that is unknown, a simple burn test can be done to determine if the fabric is a natural fiber, man made fiber, or a blend of natural and man made fibers. The burn test is used by many fabric stores and designers and takes practice to determine the exact fiber content. However, an inexperienced person can still determine the difference between many fibers to "narrow" the choices down to natural or man made fibers. This elimination process will give information necessary to decide the care of the fabric.
WARNING: All fibers will burn! Asbestos treated fibers are, for the most part fire proof. The burning test should be done with caution. Use a small piece of fabric only. Hold the fabric with tweezers, not your fingers. Burn over a metal dish with soda in the bottom or even water in the bottom of the dish. Some fabrics will ignite and melt. The result is burning drips which can adhere to fabric or skin and cause a serious burn.
Cotton is a plant fiber. When ignited it burns with a steady flame and smells like burning leaves. The ash left is easily crumbled. Small samples of burning cotton can be blown out as you would a candle.
Linen is also a plant fiber but different from cotton in that the individual plant fibers which make up the yarn are long where cotton fibers are short.
Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabric closest to the ash is very brittle. Linen is easily extinguished by blowing on it as you would a candle.
Silk is a protein fiber and usually burns readily, not necessarily with a steady flame, and smells like burning hair. The ash is easily crumbled. Silk samples are not as easily extinguished as cotton or linen.
Wool is also a protein fiber but is harder to ignite than silk as the individual "hair" fibers are shorter than silk and the weave of the fabrics is generally looser than with silk. The flame is steady but more difficult to keep burning. The smell of burning wool is like burning hair.
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4j ) What is manufactured – Man Made Fabrics and kinds of manufactured fiber? Manufactured Fabrics are usually made of filaments extruded as liquid and formed into various fibers. Because the fiber starts as a liquid, many of the fibers are colored before they become filament, thus they are difficult to dye after the fiber is woven into a fabric.

4k ) What is hemp fiber and jute? HEMP is currently being used by designers in clothing. When thinking of hemp, the illegal plant, marijuana comes to mind. No, hemp fabric does not contain the narcotic chemical that, when smoked produces the "high" that smoking marijuana produces. Marijuana is from the dried flowers and leaves of the Cannabis Sativa plant. Hemp fabric is made from the stems of the plant. The stems are processed to dissolve the gum or pectin and separate the fibers which are then processed again and woven into yarns and fabric.
The finest hemp for fabric is produced in Italy. Hemp fabric is like linen in both hand and appearance. Hemp fabric withstands water better than any other textile product. It wrinkles easily and should not be creased excessively to avoid wear and breakage of the fibers.

4l ) What are weaves and how are they different from fabrics? Types of weaves have often been mistaken for types of fabrics. For example, satin is a type of weave, and does not denote fabric content. Satin is woven from silk, polyester, acetate, or even blends of fibers. Each different fiber content contributes to the hand and drape of the satin fabric also a weave that is seen in brocade, damask, and tapestry. I once called a fabric store to find jacquard woven fabric only to be told that they didn´t carry natural fabrics. The correct answer would have been to ask what type of jacquard I was looking for. (Back)

4m ) What is cotton? What are its uses? COTTON - cool, soft, comfortable is the principal clothing fiber of the world.
Its production is one of the major factors in world prosperity and economic stability.
Cotton "breathes". What would we do without cotton? Since cotton wrinkles, polyester was added to give it wash and wear properties for a busy world. In recent times, the consumer determined that polyester, although easier to care for, took away the cool from cotton and also added a "pilling" effect to cotton/polyester blends.
Consumers now often request "100% Cotton". Permanent finishes also added to the all cotton fabric gave a wash and wear property to cotton. cotton. The cotton fiber is from the cotton plant´s seed pod The fiber is hollow in the center and, under a microscope looks like a twisted ribbon. "Absorbent" cotton will retain 24-27 times its own weight in water and is stronger when wet than dry. This fiber absorbs and releases perspiration quickly, thus allowing the fabric to "breathe".
Cotton can stand high temperatures and takes dyes easily. Chlorine bleach can be used to restore white garments to a clear white but this bleach may yellow chemically finished cottons or remove color in dyed cottons.
Boiling and sterilizing temperatures can also be used on cotton without disintegration. Cotton can also be ironed at relatively high temperatures, stands up to abrasion and wears well.
Mercerized cotton is treated to permanently straighten the cotton fibers which then becomes a smooth, rod-like fiber that is uniform in appearance with a high luster. Cotton is often blended with other fibers such as polyester, linen, wool, to "blend" the best properties of each fiber. (Back)

4n ) What is wool? What are the different kinds of wool and their advantages? WOOL fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool´s are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fiber consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fiber with such serration´s which make it possible for the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serration´s will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and shrinks! Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.
Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Worsted wool´s require a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.
WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS - although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.

4o ) What kind of cloth is linen and of what kind of material is linen composed of? LINEN, elegant, beautiful, durable, the refined luxury fabric. Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibers and has 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. Linen table cloths and napkins have been handed down generation to generation. Not only is the linen fiber strong, it is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free. Fine china, silver and candles are enhanced by the luster of linen which only gets softer and finer the more it is washed.
Linen is from flax, a bast fiber taken from the stalk of the plant. The luster is from the natural wax content. Creamy white to light tan, this fiber can be easily dyed and the color does not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle easily but also presses easily. Linen, like cotton, can also be boiled without damaging the fiber. Highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, this fabric is cool in garments.
However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during the laundering. Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily. (Back)

4p ) What is Glen Plaid? Glen plaid (or glenurquhart) is the genus and Prince of Wales plaid is a species. Glen-plaid thus refers only to the plaid pattern, whatever its color or scale. The particular rust-red, large-scale plaid described above is an old Scottish "district check" that was popularized by David, prince of Wales, in the 1920s. Thus it came to be known as the "Prince of Wales plaid." In later years, the terms came to be conflated, so that people would refer to any glen-plaid as a PoW plaid. But, technically, the true PoW plaid is the particular district check first popularized by the prince who became Edward VIII and then the duke of Windsor. (Back)

4q ) What is vicuna wool? One of the best, most luxurious wool for suits is the vicuna wool taken from the vicuna of the Andes mountains in South America.
The vicuña is a member of the camel family. It is the smallest of the six species of camel, and is thought to be the wild ancestor of the alpaca. It lives on the high, grassland plateaus of the Andes mountains which range from southern Peru to northern Chile and into parts of Bolivia and Argentina. Only tough bunch grasses and festuca grows here. The sun´s ultraviolet rays burn through the thin atmosphere during the day. At night the heat of the day escapes into the atmosphere and the temperatures go down to freezing.
Although they look fragile, the vicuña is specially adapted to its high-altitude habitat. It has an incredibly thick, soft coat that traps layers of warm air close to its body and protects it from freezing temperatures. The lower teeth of the vicuña grow constantly, like a rodent´s, so they can eat the tough grasses. The vicuña also walks on the soles of its feet so it can flex its toes and grab on to the rocks and gravel-covered slopes. Vicuña milk is very rich so the babies grow quickly.
Vicuñas weigh between 75-140 pounds. They are about 4-6 feet long and stand 2-3 1/2 feet at the shoulders. They have very long necks, round heads, and large, forward facing eyes. Their ears are long and pointed and stand up on their heads. Their fur is a rust color, with white around the muzzle,the chest, belly, and the insides of the legs. The white hair on their chests is longer than their other hair.
Vicuñas graze mostly on grasses. Their teeth are large and grow constantly like those of a rodent. They chew their cud when resting getting more nutrients out of the nutrient poor grass.
Vicuñas are very shy animals and run away very quickly. They have two territories that they defend from other herds; a feeding territory or about 45 acres, and a smaller sleeping area on higher ground where they are more protected. The vicuña live in herds of 5-10 members, which includes one dominant male and several females and their young. They mate in March and April and their young are born 11 months later. The young stay with their mother and the herd for another 10 months, when they are driven off by the herd. Young males will form bachelor groups and the young females try to find another group to join. This ensures that the herd stays the same size, which is important with their limited food supply.
The vicuña was almost hunted to extinction for its beautiful soft wool. The Incas used to round up the wild vicuñas and pen them in stone corrals, where they were sheared for their wool. In modern times they were almost wiped out for their meat and wool. By 1960 there were only 6,000 vicuñas left in the wild. Chile and Peru established protected national parks and put a halt to trade in vicuña wool. Now there are about 125,000 vicuñas, but they are still listed as threatened. The vicuña is classified as vulnerable by the IUCN, and as endangered by the USDI. (Back)

4r ) What are natural fibers made from? What is a Natural Fiber? NATURAL FABERS are created from fibers of animals coats, silkworm cocoons, and plants´ seeds, leaves, and stems. Click on the natural fiber below for information on each fiber and their weaves.

Topic 5: Fabrics and Styles

5a ) I want to order a poplin, cotton, wool, silk suit/shirt? We are glad to confirm that it is possible to have a suit/shirt or even a coat, custom made in Poplin/Cotton/wool/silk or any other fabric. The fabric search function on the left menu can be used to type in the word “silk” or “poplin” without the quote marks to do a quick search for all the materials with unusual colours for your custom garment. If the specific fabric or colour you are looking for, is not found at our site, please email us with the colour requirement so that we can source it for your particular order from our suppliers. (Back)

5b ) I would like to order custom denim Jackets/coats/slacks/jeans etc. May we confirm that we can work with denim for custom clothing and can make to measure jeans, slacks, jackets, coats and suits.
Please use our Fabric Search function and type in the words - Denim - in the keywords field of the search criteria to bring up our denim fabrics and the garments they can be made into.
Should you wish to order a garment type that is not displayed as a category for denim, please email us the kind of garment you would like made, the style number or a link to an online image, the fabric number and the colour number for the garment. This is so that we can provide you with a custom price quote for the order. (Back)

5c ) I am looking for a particular colour. Do you have the colour I am looking for? Our inventory carries hundreds of colours and hues in a huge range of fabrics. To quickly check out the colour you are looking for or to review a desired fabric type, please visit our ´search for a fabric/colour´ link where you can do quick searches using criteria such as colours, weights, climatic conditions, patterns etc. We can almost guarantee that a fabric or colour of your choice will be available in our inventory for your custom order. (Back)

5d ) What is Linen? Why Linen? A pure linen suit is a garment in itself. While it does wrinkle, it gives the image of a leisure suit that no other fabric can provide. Think casual, leisure, elegant, sporty, again sporty or sport, landed gentry, sunny, sun tanned, young, summer, tropical and mix it all up into a cocktail and that is the effect a pure linen suit gives.
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